Estimate UPS / Inverter Backup Time
Approximate how many hours a battery bank can support a given AC load during load shedding. MEPCODBill uses standard Ah × V × DoD × efficiency ÷ watts — real runtime varies with battery age, temperature and surge loads.
Pair with the appliance cost tool to size essential loads, and the solar calculator if you are planning hybrid backup. Runtime is a planning estimate — have a licensed electrician confirm battery/inverter wiring and protection for installation.
How the Tool Works (Step-by-Step)
- Sum essential load watts (fans, lights, router — avoid irons/ACs on small UPS).
- Enter battery Ah and system voltage (12 / 24 / 48).
- Choose battery type (DoD) and inverter efficiency.
- Usable Wh ≈ Ah × V × DoD × efficiency; hours ≈ usable Wh ÷ load watts.
Inputs Explained
- Load (W) — simultaneous AC watts on the inverter.
- Capacity (Ah) — battery ampere-hours (per string rules for series/parallel).
- Voltage — inverter DC bus (match battery wiring).
- DoD / efficiency — safe usable fraction and conversion losses as heat.
Formula in Plain English
Stored chemical energy becomes usable AC only after depth-of-discharge limits and inverter losses.
The Core Engineering Equation:
Backup Time (Hours) = (Battery Ah × Volts × Efficiency × DoD) ÷ Load in WattsThe Critical Metric: Depth of Discharge (DoD)
The most common and expensive mistake consumers make is assuming they can use 100% of the energy stored in a battery. This is absolutely false. Draining a lead-acid battery to 0% will cause irreversible sulfation on the lead plates, permanently destroying the battery's ability to hold a charge in the future. The safe usable limit is called the Depth of Discharge (DoD).
Standard Lead-Acid (Car Batteries)
These should never be discharged below 50% capacity. If you purchase a 200Ah flat-plate battery, you can only safely extract 100Ah of energy from it before you must recharge it.
Tubular Deep Cycle (Tall Batteries)
Engineered with thicker plates for deep cycling, these are extremely popular in Pakistan for solar setups. They can safely be discharged up to 70% (or even 80% occasionally), giving you far more usable energy per Ampere-hour.
Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4)
The premium, modern choice. They are incredibly lightweight, last for over 10 years, and can safely be discharged to a massive 90% or 95%. While the initial investment is high, their sheer usable capacity and longevity make them the most cost-effective long-term solution for load shedding.
Inverter Efficiency Losses
Your inverter acts as the bridge between your DC battery and your AC appliances. When an inverter converts 12V DC power into 220V AC power, significant energy is lost in the form of heat (which is why inverter fans spin so loudly).
Older, local-made modified sine wave UPS units are typically only 75% to 80% efficient. This means 20% of your battery's stored energy is wasted just running the UPS itself. Modern, branded pure sine wave solar inverters utilize superior semiconductor technology and achieve 90% to 95% efficiency, granting you significantly longer backup times from the exact same battery.
Actionable Strategies to Optimize Backup Time
- Audit Your Load: Never connect heavy thermal appliances (irons, microwaves, geysers) or high-draw compressors (ACs, old refrigerators) to a standard backup system. They will drain the battery in minutes and potentially trip the inverter.
- Upgrade to LED and DC: Replace all 60W incandescent bulbs with 12W LEDs. If possible, replace traditional 80W AC ceiling fans with modern 30W BLDC (Brushless DC) inverter fans. This simple change can literally triple your backup time.
- Check Battery Terminals: Corroded or loose battery terminals introduce immense electrical resistance, which causes voltage drops and tricks the inverter into thinking the battery is empty. Clean terminals with baking soda and water monthly.
When Runtime Differs from the Estimate
Age, sulfation, incomplete charging between outages, cold weather, long cable drops and compressor surge currents all shorten real backup. Treat the result as a planning approximation.
How this estimate works
Core logic
Runtime hours ≈ (battery Ah × volts × DoD × efficiency) ÷ load watts
Assumptions
- Load watts are simultaneous AC watts on the inverter (not surge peaks)
- DoD reflects a safe usable fraction for the battery chemistry you select
- Efficiency accounts for DC→AC conversion heat losses
Limitations
- Approximate Wh / load runtime only — age, sulfation, temperature and cable drop shorten real backup
- Compressor surge currents and incomplete recharge between outages are not modelled
- Not a manufacturer datasheet or installer battery design
This calculator runs entirely in your browser. Inputs are not uploaded to our servers.
Sources & verification
Official sources sit above third-party summaries. Open these pages to confirm the current figure or process.
- PITC Bill PortalOfficial bill lookup when you are sizing backup against real household usage
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
How long will a 150Ah battery last on a 300 Watt load?▼
Assuming it is a standard 12V tubular battery (70% DoD) running on an inverter with 90% efficiency, you have about 1134 Watt-hours of actual usable energy (150 * 12 * 0.9 * 0.7 = 1134). Dividing this 1134Wh by your 300W load yields approximately 3.78 hours (or roughly 3 hours and 45 minutes) of backup time.
Why is my brand new battery draining so fast?▼
Rapid battery drain on a new unit is rarely a battery fault. It is usually caused by connecting hidden heavy loads (like an old, inefficient refrigerator compressor kicking in), a low-quality inverter that wastes energy as heat, or the battery not being fully charged because the grid power was not available long enough between load shedding cycles to reach 100% capacity.
Should I buy two 100Ah batteries or one single 200Ah battery?▼
This entirely depends on the voltage requirement of your inverter. If your inverter operates on a 24V system, you must buy two 12V batteries and wire them in series to achieve 24V. However, if you have a standard 12V inverter, it is generally safer and more efficient to buy a single large 200Ah battery to avoid the imbalance issues that occur when wiring two batteries in parallel.